Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a powerful humectant that, once it has been collected, can absorb and store up to 1,000 times its molecular weight in moisture, which keeps the skin plump and supple.

This moisturizing component occurs naturally in the skin; However, with age, the level of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases, which leads to water loss and accelerates the aging process. Although HA has “acid” in its name, it is not an exfoliating ingredient, not much like salicylic acid or glycolic acid.

This hydrating acid won’t instantly remove fine lines and wrinkles or replace your elastin However, it does help tighten your entire complexion and make those lines look smoother with its incredible water retention benefits.

Hyaluronic acid can be beneficial for all skin types, including oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin. It’s relatively light without a greasy texture and increases moisture levels without adding any oil, making it ideal for oily skin.

Sodium hyaluronate is a salt made from hyaluronic acid and is much smaller in molecular size, making it much easier to absorb into the skin than HA.

Fatty acids (lipids) are an important part of the skin and there are nine types of ceramides in the outer layer and they make up 40-50% of the lipids in the stratum corneum, also known as the epidermis, the outer layer of the skin.

A family of waxes (cera means “wax” in Latin) that quickly repairs a broken skin’s barrier. They work even better when paired with fatty acids and cholesterol. Together, they reduce water loss and increase skin hydration.

Fatty Acids: Linoleic, oleic, Linolenic acid & co are incredibly moisturising and help your skin’s barrier heal faster. Great for dry skin but may clog pores and cause acne in oily skin.

Ceramides hold the skin’s surface proteins together and are the glue that holds everything together by forming a protective layer. It is an integral part of the strength of your skin barrier; helps regulate water retention and protects your skin from damage. Increasing age reduces ceramide production, this is where a ceramide product can help by strengthening and repairing the skin.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that fights against free radical damage. Free radicals can weaken the skin by breaking down collagen, which makes the skin less firm and can create wrinkles.

This potent ingredient is also widely used for skin lightening to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. These wonderful benefits make it useful in any anti-aging face care regimen!

Many experts recommend topical vitamin C is best used under moisturizer and sunscreen, as sensitivity to the sun increases with use.

Vitamin C is one of the most powerful skin care active ingredients due to its proven antioxidant properties that improve the radiance and texture of the skin while neutralizing free radicals to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It is most commonly used for skin lightening, depigmentation and Anti-aging products. 

What type of vitamin C is best for skin?

Ascorbic acid 

The most well researched and natural form of pure vitamin C, ascorbic acid, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is water-soluble and is easily absorbed by the skin.

Ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant that can be used topically in dermatology to neutralize free radicals and promotes collagen production, which has the potential to thicken the dermis, diminish fine lines.

It is less stable than other forms as it oxidizes when exposed to light and air and, in high doses, can cause skin irritation. However, if you try and your skin is fine with it then this is the best option for the most effective results.

Start with a low concentration of 10% and increase the concentration to 15-20% if tolerated, as more stubborn pigmentation offers cumulative benefits.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a water-soluble form of vitamin C made by combining ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) with a magnesium salt, which are used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products including makeup, as well as skin and hair care products.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is considered to be the most stable forms of vitamin C and works well in water-based formulas because it is not easily broken down.

With its anti-inflammatory properties, MAP does wonders in relieving skin irritation and pimples, and providing the skin with moisturizing benefits.

On the other hand, the antioxidant properties of this MAP are much lower than those of ascorbic acid, but still effective in increasing the skin’s collagen synthesis and lightening the skin.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

This is a gentle version of vitamin C that is non-irritating and more stable than pure vitamin C, which can be used on particularly sensitive skin.

It helps repair the skin and fights free radicals that cause aging, dark spots and acne, but is less effective at collagen synthesis than pure vitamin C. As a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C, it is often found in oil-based and anti-aging products.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD)

THD is one of the newest and a a highly stable forms of vitamin C that works as a powerful antioxidant helps neutralize the types of free radicals, which can damage skin’s lipid and cause a breakdown in collagen.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is oil-soluble derivative that makes it easier to penetrate deeper layers of the skin, where it works with vitamin E (tocopherol) that’s naturally in your skin.

THD has a neutral pH of 7, which is far less irritating than acidic ascorbic acid, and it pairs well with other types of vitamin C and the anti-aging ingredients like vitamin E, green tea, and vitamin A (retinol).

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a hydrophilic and bioactive form of vitamin C made from the combination of ascorbic acid with a phosphate and a salt and can be found in naturally occurring foods like citrus fruits, guavas, broccoli and more.

SAP is a stable powerful antioxidant that, when absorbed into the skin, is converted to ascorbic acid, which provides photoprotection, increases the effectiveness of sunscreens and lightens skin tone.

With its strong antimicrobial effect, it protects the skin from infection or inflammation and inhibits the formation of edema.

Sodium Ascorbate

Sodium ascorbate is one of several mineral salts of ascorbic acid that help reduce acidity, and when applied to the skin, it is converted to ascorbic acid, which means it is less irritating to your skin.

This ingredient is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products, including makeup, and skin and hair care products, as an antioxidant to help slow the deterioration caused by exposure to air.

Calcium Ascorbate

Calcium ascorbate is another mineral salt of ascorbic acid and also known as Ester-C®, a unique and patented form of buffered vitamin C.

This anti-wrinkle ingredient is hydrophilic and has excellent moisturizing and skin protecting properties, minimizing the appearance of discoloration and imparting radiance onto your skin.

What does vitamin C do for your face?

When applied topically, Vitamin C stimulates inhibition of melanin production in the skin, which helps to lighten hyperpigmentation and brown spots, even out skin tone, and enhance skin glow.

With its acidic nature, it helps in shedding dead and damaged skin cells, thus accelerating natural skin turnover, making your skin brighter and clearer.

What are the Benefits of Vitamin C?

• Repair damaged skin
• Fight free radicals & signs of aging
• Protect skin from sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays
• Brighten dark spots
• Even out skin tone
• Restore moisture
• Minimize fine lines and wrinkles
• Boost collagen production
• Fade hyperpigmentation

Does vitamin C help with acne scars?

The use of vitamin C has been shown to treat acne scars by increasing collagen synthesis and inhibiting melanin production. It also helps wound healing and minimizes the formation of raised scars and prevents your skin from drying out or aging quickly.

Does vitamin C help wrinkles?

If you’re wondering how to get rid of forehead wrinkles without botox, you’re going to love this legendary anti-aging ingredient. Vitamin C acts as a coenzyme in the production of collagen, it helps ward off premature signs of aging and make the skin look smoother, brighter and more vibrant.

What percentage vitamin C serum should I use?

If you want to find an effective vitamin C serum, you’d better look for a product that has a concentration between 8 and 20 percent. The higher the concentration, the more potency has, and for serums with concentration below 8 percent are known to be less effective.

If you have dry, sensitive, and easily irritated skin, you may find that higher concentrations can be irritating, so we recommend starting with a low concentration of 8-10 percent and increasing to 15 percent depending on tolerance.

On the other hand, if you have oily and normal skin types, you may be able to do without a higher concentration of L-ascorbic acid, which is considered to be the most effective vitamin C for skin.

Can Vitamin C and Niacinamide be used together?

The short answer is yes, when used correctly. Niacinamide (also called nicotinamide) is one of two main forms of vitamin B3 (niacin), an essential nutrient that reduces dullness and helps skin make more collagen—works well for all skin types and ages.

As you probably noticed above, both ingredients actually carries similar benefits. This winning combination of niacinamide and vitamin C is your secret weapon for numerous benefits, from treating blemish-prone and scar-prone skin to reducing visible dark spots on the skin.

In addition, they recharge and revamp together to promote a firmer and radiant complexion, even out skin tone, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Please note that the absorbed acid must be in a formula with a low pH (around 3.5) to be most effective. On the other hand, niacinamide would naturally raise the pH to around 4.5-5, so it is better to be extra careful with products formulated with these two together. 

What can you mix vitamin C serum with?

Not all powerful skincare ingredients can be mixed, Vitamin C works well in combination with Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, Vitamin B, and Hyaluronic Acid.

What should you not mix with vitamin C?

Some ingredients work best in different skin environments, so using both at the same time may be less effective or cause irritation. It’s best not to mix vitamin C with AHAs and BHAs like glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids, and retinol (vitamin A).

Vitamin C is also an acid and unstable, and the pH levels of these elements do not interact well with each other and, as a result, their effectiveness is cancelled out.

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, strengthens the skin’s barrier, helps the skin repair damage, soothes inflammation and redness.

It soothes irritations, treats acne, fades away dark spots, reduces the appearance of wrinkles, and even hydrates skin. It works by increasing the levels of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids in your skin, helping it heal faster.

This popular cosmetic ingredient also offers a skin lightening effect to improve uneven skin tone and a dull face.

Studies have shown that topical application of niacinamide in aging skin improves surface texture, smoothens wrinkles and inhibits photo carcinogenesis.

This unique ingredient is very popular in Korean cosmetics industry for its anti-aging, hydrating, and soothing properties!

Snail Mucin has a seemingly huge list of benefits from fading dark spots, wound healing, plumping up fine lines, and increasing collagen production for firmer skin!

Snail slime is packed with nutrients like hyaluronic acid, glycoprotein enzymes, antimicrobial and copper peptides, and proteoglycans, which makes it wonderful to take your facial care regimen to the next level.

AHA exfoliates and loosens dead skin cells on the skin’s surface and stimulate the skin’s cell regeneration process. They help smooth out pigment spots, fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scars while brightening and smoothing your skin.

The common forms of alpha hydroxy acid are Glycolic acid and lactic acid. If you want to learn more about AHA and how to use it in your skin care routine, check out this blog post: Which Acid is Right For You? AHA, BHA, or PHA?

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)

AHAs are water-soluble components derived from natural substances such as sugar cane, almonds, milk, grapes, and citrus fruits. They work to peel away the surface of the skin in a targeted manner to remove rough, uneven skin texture, visible signs of sun damage, winkles and enlarged pores.

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is one of the most effective alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) for the skin due to its small molecular size, which makes it easy for it to penetrate the skin and is derived from plants like sugar cane and pineapple, but also found in snail slime. It is effective at exfoliating the surface of the skin and removing darker, melanin-stained, dead skin cells. This high-potent acid also reduces the appearance of acne scars, age-related spots, sun damage, and other forms of hyperpigmentation.

While glycolic acid is the most potent, leading to the most dramatic results, it also has the potential to be the most irritating. That said, if you have sensitive skin or are using new chemical peels, you may experience reactions such as redness, irritation, or stinging. 

A gentler alternative that contains lactic acid or mandelic acid. 

AHAs are recommended for normal to dry, mature, and sun damaged skin because they are powerful humectants that can improve the skin’s natural moisturizing factors in the skin.

The most effective AHA acts as a chemical peel and humectant to get rid of dead skin cells and reduce scars, rough textures, and signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles.

The exfoliating properties of acid help loosen the top layer of skin and break up dead skin cells that have stuck together, resulting in a smoother texture and lighter skin tone. As a result, your skin can better absorb other treatments such as ascorbic acid, retinol, or peptides.

Glycolic acid is recommended for those who have problems with acne, blackheads, or who have dull complexions due to the accumulation of sebum and proteins clogged with your pores, oily, mature skin types.

Lactic acid

Another type of AHA, lactic acid is derived from milk and sugarcane. Lactic acid helps freshen up the skin and relieve congestion, but due to its larger molecule size and targeting only the top layer of the skin, it also helps increase the natural moisturizing factors in the skin.

Lactic acid works on all skin types, however, is particularly beneficial for sensitive, dry and mature skin.

Lactic acid is a mild version of glycolic acid, so it’s gentler and less irritating, making it ideal for dry, sensitive skin and those prone to the irritation.

Similar to other forms of alpha hydroxy acids, lactic acid offers general exfoliating and skin lightening benefits and can increase the moisturizing factor because it acts as a humectant as well.

Mandelic acid

Naturally derived from bitter almonds, Mandelic acid contains antibacterial properties that has been shown to be effective in balancing pigmentation, treating existing inflammatory acne and preventing future breakouts.

Mandelic acid is a mild version of AHAs due to its larger molecule and it penetrates the skin more slowly, which means it is gentler on your skin. Ideal for dry, sensitive, and acne-prone skin types.

Tartaric acid

Found naturally in many plants and fruits, including wine grapes and tamarinds, Tartaric acid contains antioxidants that protect the skin from the harmful ravages of free radicals

With its keratolytic and astringent properties, this powerhouse helps to supply the skin with moisture, to improve skin texture and to reduce the visible signs of aging. Great for almost all skin types—sensitive skin, dry, combo, oily—all can benefit.

Citric acid

True to its name, it’s present in citrus fruits—oranges, lemons, grapefruit—as well as berries. Citric acid helps adjust pH level and work to lighten uneven pigmentation and smooth out skin texture.

Citric acid is a very powerful antioxidant and  a natural astringent, helping to dry out excess oil, clean pores. Citric acid is generally considered safe for all skin types, however, particularly beneficial for those with oily skin with congested pores.

BHAs are oil-soluble acids that work on the surface of the skin and in deeper parts of the skin to dissolve the keratin plugs, bacteria, and grime that has built up on the skin’s surface so that pores can remain clear and free from irritants.

A soothing leave-on BHA exfoliant helps minimizes psoriasis scales and improves the feel of rough, dry and bumpy skin.

BHA is most beneficial for oily, combination, acne-prone skin and those looking to treat superficial acne, like whiteheads, blackheads, breakouts, and small red pimples.

For those with dry, eczema-prone, or sensitive skin, the active ingredient could be too harsh and lead to irritation.

Just note that if you are using strong acids, you are slowly testing your skin to see if your skin can tolerate the new ingredient. Patch tests are very important for testing new chemical peels!

BHA Exfoliators For Acne-Prone Skin Types

Salicylic acid is the most common beta-hydroxy acid and belongs to a class of drugs known as aspirin (salicylates) that have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that help soothe pimples, inflamed skin, and prevent future comedones.

** Please avoid products containing salicylic acid if you are allergic to aspirin. 

Chemical Exfoliators For Oily Skin Types

Salicylic acid is lipophilic, which means it can break down fatty compounds that help to clear out excess oils and reduce sebum levels, thereby preventing pimples, blemishes.

PHA is AHA’s little sister and has a larger molecular size than AHAs, which makes them slower to penetrate the skin. That means it doesn’t exfoliate as hard as glycolic acid and causes less irritation and redness than AHAs, making it suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive skin.

The polyhydroxy acid is not only an exfoliator, it also turns it into a humectant, AKA an ingredient that attracts water to the skin.

They remove dead skin cells and excess build up on the surface, resulting in a more even skin tone and texture. It also helps reduce fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and acne scars while increasing cell renewal.

Lactobionic acid

Lactobionic acid is an oxidized form of lactose, which is derived from milk and it act as an antioxidant, humectant, and also has anti-aging properties.

The polyhydroxybionic acid (bionics) is safer and better tolerated than its better-known cousin glycolic acid, but effective in reducing the appearance of pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation, including post-spot marks and sun spots.

This non-irritating acid can be ideal for those with more sensitive skin types who are prone to irritation with other strong exfoliants.

Galactose

Found in lactose, the sugar in animal milk, or some dairy products, galactose is an energy-providing nutrient that helps healing by stimulating collagen synthesis.

Galactose contains antioxidant properties when ingested and applied topically to the skin, meaning it helps slow aging by protecting your skin from the damaging effects of pollution, UV exposure, and oxidative stress.

This PHA acid is gentle enough for all skin types to use, even those with sensitive skin with frequent rosacea and eczema flare-ups.

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is a crystalline powder extracted from gluconic acid, which is a substance naturally produced by mammals and corn.

Gluconolactone is a humectant, preservative and provides antioxidant and antimicrobial properties that protect the skin by reducing and counteracting free radical production and improving the skin’s hydration.

In general, it’s good for all skin types, particularly those with sensitive or mature skin 

Benefits of AHA BHA, and PHA

• You can start to experience its remarkable benefits by adding an peeling acids to your skin care regimen.
• Calm and heal active acne and even prevent future breakouts
• Softens blackheads, making them easier to extract
• Diminish the look of wrinkles and fine lines
• Brightens the skin and improves dullness
• improves the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
• Make the skin look and feel firmer and clearer
• Smooth and hydrate skin
• Improve uneven skin tone and texture
• Minimize the appearance of pore size
• Unclog excess debris and dead skin cells
• Promote collagen production

How do you know if you need AHA, BHA, or PHA?

First of all, analyze your skin type and current skin issues— if you have dry skin and feel stressed out about skin problems on the surface of the skin such as acne scars, dark spots, sun damage, dullness, shop a product that contains AHA (or PHA if you have sensitive skin).

BHAs are best for oily and acne-prone skin with clogged pores and excess oil, while PHAs can be suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive skin, including those with rosacea and eczema that AHAs and BHAs cannot tolerate.

Still not sure which acid to use? Don’t worry, you can use a product that contains both AHAs, BHAs (and PHAs) to work together with your skin problems, from hyper-pigmentation, flaky and rough patches, to cystic acne.

Please note that AHAs increase sensitivity to the sun (compared to BHAs and PHAs) – you should always wear sunscreen after exfoliating to prevent further sun damage.

In addition, since they’re humectants that draw moisture from the inside, which can lead to dehydration of the skin if overused. Do not use it in your daily regimen.

Green tea has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce skin irritation, redness, and swelling, and help treat acne and cleanse pores.

This natural ingredient contains high levels of polyphenols, which act as natural sun protection and help reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, thus helping to slow down the premature aging process and reduce sagging skin and wrinkles.

Studies have shown that green tea offers the power of antioxidants that protect the skin from free radicals and reduce cell damage by impeding the harmful effects of sun exposure. Be sure to use sunscreen to double-protect your skin.

Retinol, also known as a vitamin A derivative, is one of the powerful skin-transforming ingredients that can increase cell turnover and help improve skin texture, fine lines and dark spots.

Retinoid helps fight free radicals and stimulates skin cell repair by increasing collagen and elastin production.

If you are new to a product containing vitamin A, retinol is a great start to your skin transition before using retinoid, tretinoin, or similar products.

This powerful ingredient can be used with niacinamide to soothe and reduce irritation or with ceramides to strengthen the skin’s barrier and keep it moisturized. For best results and fewer negative reactions, it’s best to use it in your nighttime skin regimen.

Why does Korean skincare not use retinol?

Retinol is an excellent beneficial skincare ingredient for anti-aging skin care products. However, when you start to add it to your skincare routine, it could cause irritations, redness, flaking and peeling.

Since Korean skincare tends to avoid harsh ingredients, you’ll find alternative products with gentler ingredients such as niacinamide, snail mucin, and all the great ingredients mentioned above. 

Retinol is an excellent beneficial cosmetic ingredient in anti-aging skin care products. However, when you add it to your skin care routine it can cause irritation, redness, peeling, and flaking.

Since Korean skin care therefore tends to avoid harsh ingredients, they use gentler alternatives

Skin Brightening & Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is darkened patches or spots on skin and can occur due to sun exposure, acne scarring, or inflammation. To fade dark spots, wear a sunscreen and incorporate skin brightening ingredients such as AHAs, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), kojic acid, or licorice extract.